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The effect and efficacy of ellagic acid on the skin

1. Whitening effect

Ellagic acid is one of the effective whitening ingredients recognized by dermatology. At present, people's concept of skin whitening has changed fundamentally, from physical whitening to biological whitening by means of melanin reduction.

As for how ellagic acid plays a role in whitening, let's first look at the formation mechanism of melanin: melanocytes exist in the basal layer of the epidermis and are the manufacturing plant of melanin. The raw material of melanin is tyrosine, which must be converted into dopa and dopa quinon successively by tyrosinase, and finally melanin is formed.

Ellagic acid has a high affinity for copper in the active site of tyrosinase and can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase. In the comparative test of topical application of ellagic acid on the epidermis of brown guinea pigs, it was found that ellagic acid can effectively inhibit the skin pigmentation caused by ultraviolet rays. Tyrosinase plays a very important role in the synthesis of melanin.


2. Anti-aging effect

Studies have shown that ellagic acid and its derivatives can strengthen the dermis-epidermal junction by increasing the ratio of keratinocytes to fibroblasts VII mesocollagen, so as to reduce wrinkles, tighten skin, regulate skin texture and delay skin aging. Ellagic acid can effectively promote the regeneration of skin elastic fibers, protect elastic fibrin from degradation, especially can reduce skin tissue damage caused by long-term or frequent radiation and ultraviolet radiation in sunlight and slow photoaging.


3. Convergence effect

The astringency makes the cosmetics containing ellagic acid have good adhesion to the skin under waterproof conditions, and can shrink the large pores, tighten the sagging skin, reduce wrinkles, and prevent the skin from secreting too much oil. In addition to skin care products, ellagic acid can also be used as an antiperspirant to reduce sweat secretion by astringent sweat glands; or added to hair products to use its astringent effect to prevent oily scalp and hair loss and dandruff.


4. Anti-radiation effect

Ellagic acid and its condensed form ellagitannins are the main components in pomegranate juice. Afaq et al. used enhanced ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation on human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) to study the anti-ultraviolet radiation effect of pomegranate juice. NHEK was treated with pomegranate juice 10-40 g/ml for 24 h, then irradiated with ultraviolet (40 mJ/em) dose, and then detected by western blot analysis, enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay and electrophoretic mobility shift assay. The results showed that pomegranate juice mediated the phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAKP) signaling pathway in human epidermal keratinocytes in a time-dose-dependent manner. The time-dose-dependent inhibition experiment showed that pomegranate juice exerted anti-radiation effect by interfering with MAKP signaling pathway.